The Bakuchiol used in skincare is extracted and purified from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, a legume that grows wild in India and China. Care needs to be taken in the extraction process as Bakuchi, the crude oil from the seeds, contains photocarcinogens known as psoralens – compounds for which the plant was named. Bakuchiol makes up about 1.6% of Bakuchi oil. Esse uses a 99% pure Bakuchiol.

Over the last few decades, retinol has become a go-to ingredient for anti-ageing results due its efficacy in addressing a number of ageing skin concerns. Its toxicity and side effects mean that it comes with some risks though. It is unstable in sunlight and can cause dryness and irritation on skin. The key advantage of using bakuchiol over retinol is that these side effects are absent and it is photostable, so can be safely used during the day without risk of instability or toxicity.

Anti-ageing action of Bakuchiol

Based on new studies, there is no statistical difference in improved wrinkle depth when comparing bakuchiol and retinol, with both ingredients tested at 0.5%. The same can be said for improvement in hyperpigmentation associated with ageing. As added benefits, bakuchiol reduces redness and skin roughness – both side effects often associated with the use of retinol.

Bakuchiol has also been shown to protect mitochondrial functions against oxidative stress and also to increase ATP synthesis, which releases more energy for cells.

Matrix Metalloproteases (MMPs) play a major role in collagen degradation and bakuchiol is far superior to retinol at inhibiting these.

Inflammation regulation 

Bakuchiol’s ability to mitigate inflammation is key to both its anti-ageing and anti-acne activity. From an ageing perspective, chronic inflammation eventually exhausts the body’s defense system, resulting in collagen and elastin degradation and the collapse of barrier function. Bakuchiol downregulates many pro-inflammatory genes in skin cells to reduce inflammation.

An interesting side-note … at high concentrations retinol stimulates inflammatory genes but this effect is not seen with the use of bakuchiol.

All in all, Bakuchiol is an ingredient Esse is excited to include in the Resurrect Serum, a launch that has been formulated to actively address ageing in sensitive skin.

What makes this plant different is not in its physical appearance, you might not even notice it if you were to come across it in its natural habitat. For most of its life it looks dead. In its harsh environment it has the ability to almost completely desiccate without dying for up to three years. Most plants die if they lose 20% to 30% of their water content but Myrothamnus is able to completely air dry yet remain alive. It remains in this state until water is available and then, within a matter of hours, it springs to life.

DNA Protection

The chemical toolkit that the plant uses to protect its DNA through years of complete desiccation is very interesting for anti-ageing skin care.

The key polyphenol that allows oxidative protection during dormancy is 3,4,5-tri-O-galloylquinic acid and is the compound that dominates the polyphenol profile of the Namibian varieties of Myrothamnus, accounting for up to 40% of the dry mass of the dormant plant.

Esse uses Namibian plants to maximise efficacy. Through a process of extraction and vacuum spray drying, we preserve the polyphenols that confer the potent anti-oxidant protection the plant utilises to preserve its DNA for years.

Rapid moisturisation

Esse has conducted independent testing in Germany that shows that this new ingredient is also a rapid skin moisturiser. A neutral gel containing the extract was shown to boost skin hydration for 24 hours after just a single application.

Below you can see the % improvement in skin hydration over a 24-hour period.

Community value

The Namib desert in Namibia is very arid and the people living in the area are nomadic pastoralists dependent on subsistence livestock farming. With the Resurrection Plant being indigenous to the area, its harvest and sale provides communities with an important source of alternative income. A reduction in livestock dependence also results in decreased pressure on the biodiversity of the area by reducing grazing pressure in this diverse but sensitive ecology.

Esse has engaged in a joint venture with the Kunene Conservancies Indigenous Natural Products Trust in a Nagoya-compliant agreement that allows the twelve tribes of the Kunene to share in profits from the sale of Esse products that utilise Myrothamnus extract. Extensive studies have been conducted to show the sustainability of the wild-harvest of Resurrection Plants in the Kunene region of Namibia and continued monitoring ensures a healthy and sustainable plant population in the wild.

It’s important to remember that sensitivity often correlates directly to a disruption in barrier function due to a microbial imbalance. This disruption results in an immune response that puts your skin on high alert and prone to flare ups, even when exposed to seemingly harmless ingredients.

As an Esse user, you will know that our primary goal is to remediate any microbiome imbalances and reverse sensitivity. An overactive immune response results in inflammation which is a primary contributor to skin ageing. Reducing inflammation is a major step in the right direction.

Anti-ageing products tend to carry active ingredients at levels that tip sensitive skins toward an inflammatory state and leave sufferers in a position of managing a concern rather than actively addressing ageing.

Esse focuses on getting to the root of sensitivity so that clients with sensitive skin can take steps toward an active anti-ageing skincare routine.

Enter the Resurrect Serum

Formulated by biochemist and founder of Esse Skincare, Trevor Steyn, the Resurrect Serum delivers actives that both calm and fight the signs of ageing. There is a trio of hero ingredients in this formulation, apart from the signature Esse probiotic technology:

Myrothamnus flabellifolia or the Resurrection plant for which the serum is named, offers exceptional hydration and anti-oxidant properties to the final product. The plant is able to exist for years in the Namib Desert without a drop of water. It dries out completely and appears to be dead, only to spring to life in 3 hours after the rains arrive. The compounds that protect it and allow for rehydration during the harshest of droughts is what Esse extracts and includes in the new Resurrect Serum. This extract is further supported in its hydration and anti-inflammatory action with the inclusion of Hyaluronic Acid.

Bakuchiol is a non-toxic replacement for retinol and shows similar or better results without the downsides of skin irritation and phototoxicity, making it the perfect sensitive skin ingredient for overall skin improvement. As an aside, bakuchiol is an effective acne treatment, showing, on average, 70% reduction in 12 weeks.
Gamma aminobutyric acid (GABA), in combination with Bakuchiol offers outstanding skin firming and wrinkle reduction outcomes. On its own, it has the ability to relax facial muscles over time to reduce wrinkle depth. It also boosts skin firmness and improves the texture of rough skin.

For best results, the Resurrect Serum is a long-term solution to sensitive skin ageing concerns with all trials having been carried out over a 12-week period. The generous 30ml pack size ensures that clients see results from their purchase.

Each product is developed to address a specific skin concern, therefore no two products are the same. However, apart from each product’s tailored ingredients, there are two ingredients that are included in all Esse products. These are probiotics and prebiotics. They are the foundation upon which Esse products are developed, and what sets Esse apart from regular skincare brands.

Defining Pre-and Probiotics

Prebiotics and probiotics have a symbiotic relationship. Probiotics are live micro-organisms (bacteria) that have proven health benefits when either consumed or applied to the skin. These live organisms help to restore the body and skin’s natural balance, which is why they are included in food items such as yoghurt, and skincare products such as Esse Probiotic Serum. Prebiotics, simply put, are food for the probiotics, which feed on the prebiotics to remain active and working at optimal capacity.

Internally, these bacteria are collectively called gut flora or gut microbiota. Consuming a balanced amount of both prebiotics and probiotics keeps the gut healthy, preventing a bacterial imbalance by keeping pathogens at bay with their protective functionality.

Externally, skincare products that contain probiotics – either live or inactivated – provide the skin with a defence mechanism that is comprised of beneficial microbes, which increase their population on your skin’s surface, thereby preventing pathogens (or bad microbes) from taking up residence on your skin. These little bacterial soldiers are an essential part of the epidermis, and without them, you are left exposed to any number of potential germs and pathogenic bacteria, which can lead to negative skin reactions, and even illness.

In order to provide the skin with natural treatments that don’t cause irritation or strip the skin of its natural barrier function, we only use approved and certified organic ingredients, so our customers can rest assured that they are not exposing themselves to harmful or toxic chemicals. Natural botanicals form a large proportion of the ingredients that we use, each with their own unique skincare benefits and natural fragrances. These ingredients are selected for their specific skin concern benefits. For example, Esse has developed serums for rehydrating skin. Other skin concerns, such as acne, ageing skin, sensitivity, pigmentation, dryness and oily skin, are also catered for.

So, to answer the question, “What’s in a drop?”, millions of probiotics and beneficial ingredients that serve to treat your particular skin concern, without the harsh additives included in many regular skincare and beauty products. Whilst these may provide short-term results, science and nature provide solid evidence that natural products are far healthier for the body, which obviates the possibility of an allergic reaction or a severe condition that is triggered by harsh synthetics.

In conclusion, a little (drop) goes a long way!

Truly reactive skin is easily aggravated, and is described as environmentally sensitised or vaso-reactive.

Sensitivity is generally the result of an impaired barrier function, which results in nerve endings being more prone to irritation, and a hyperactive immune response. How the skin responds to triggers can include symptoms of swelling/oedema, redness, blemishes, stinging or tingling, itching and dry, scaly patches.

How do you know if you have sensitive or reactive skin?

• Skin might feel dry and itchy for no apparent reason
• Skin might sting and tingle when applying products
• Skin might be reactive or easily stimulated by heat and/or friction
• You may be prone to breakouts and develop rashes easily

Sensitive skin can be greatly improved by following some easy steps that don’t need to be expensive or time consuming.

What can you do to reduce and prevent skin sensitivity?

• Strengthen barrier function by supporting a healthy skin microbiome, choose pH balanced products that do not contain harsh preservatives.
• Supplement your skincare routine with pre- and probiotics.
• Avoid all foaming products – use a cream-based cleanser and don’t cleanse in the morning.
• Avoid fragrances – these are often synthetic and can trigger an exaggerated immune response.
• Avoid synthetic and chemical ingredients – these can harm beneficial skin micro-organisms and are not compounds that skin would be exposed to naturally.
• Avoid alcohols and astringents in products – these act as anti-bacterial agents, disrupting the skin’s microbiome.
• Avoid extreme temperature or climate changes.
• Manage your environment, lifestyle, diet and water intake – skin health is better managed holistically.

All that’s left to do is to head over to our store locator and find your nearest Esse stockist for a free skin analysis.  The time for great skin is now.

SKIN ILLUMINATION

Layer to achieve light to medium coverage with a natural, illuminating finish.  The lightweight formulation leaves the skin looking sheer and radiant whilst moisturising and strengthening barrier function.

MICROBIOME FRIENDLY

Boost your skin’s microbiome with pre and probiotic ingredients. Proven to strengthen barrier function and contribute to a healthy skin microbiome, the foundation will not pollute the skin with harmful ingredients often associated with colour cosmetics.

SPF 30 – NATURAL SKIN DEFENCE

We’ve got you covered in more than one way. With SPF 30 and a range of anti-oxidants this is the most natural way to get protection from the sun, from environmental aggressors and lifestyle pollutants.

CERTIFIED ORGANIC

Foundation doesn’t get more natural than this – certified to COSMOS organic standards by Ecocert means you are not polluting your skin with harmful toxins that have both an impact on your skin and your body.

VEGAN AND CRUELTY FREE

Accredited vegan and cruelty free because we care as much as you.

IDEAL FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

Fragrance free and loaded with skin strengthening probiotics, this is the all-round best foundation to calm and protect and strengthen sensitive skins.

WHAT’S YOUR NUMBER?

The key to a beautifully natural foundation is a perfect colour match, with 10 shade to choose from, there is a perfect match for every skin tone.