The COSMOS organic standards have strict guidelines that regulate which packaging materials we can use, but, as usual, we see these as a starting point. COSMOS standards ban many types of plastic … either because the production causes too much pollution or because they are not recyclable. The standards do allow a few different types of plastics (PET, PP, PETG, LDPE, HDPE) that are more environmentally friendly. The standards also allow glass, paper, aluminium and a few others. Which ones are best?

There are a few ways to look at the problem and there is no perfect answer, but this is how we thought it through.

First, we looked at the pollution in the production process, then we looked at the carbon footprint in both production and transport and, lastly, we looked at what happens to the material once it has been used.

In terms of pollution in production, glass wins once the full process is considered.

The carbon footprint is a bit more intricate. Glass has an embodied carbon value of 1,44 kgCO2/kg. This means that for every kilogram of glass produced, 1,44kg of carbon dioxide is emitted into the atmosphere. Plastic is substantially higher. As an example, polypropylene (PP) has an embodied carbon footprint of 4,49 kgCO2/kg. This means much more carbon per kilogram of plastic, but plastic weighs less and this means that in some cases, there is less embodied carbon in a product packaged in plastic and in others less in the glass option. This calculation takes transport into account.

The deciding factor comes in considering the fate of the packaging after it is used. In the EU around 73% of glass is recycled. The figure for plastic is 42%. In the USA, only 8,5% of plastic is recycled, and this is not increasing … it is down from 2015, when 9,1% was recycled.

Glass is made from sand and minerals. It is inert and does not harm ecosystems if it isn’t recycled. The same cannot be said for plastic.

We will continue to evaluate our options and to innovate on our packaging to reduce our environmental impact.

It’s important to remember that sensitivity often correlates directly to a disruption in barrier function due to a microbial imbalance. This disruption results in an immune response that puts your skin on high alert and prone to flare ups, even when exposed to seemingly harmless ingredients.

As an Esse user, you will know that our primary goal is to remediate any microbiome imbalances and reverse sensitivity. An overactive immune response results in inflammation which is a primary contributor to skin ageing. Reducing inflammation is a major step in the right direction.

Anti-ageing products tend to carry active ingredients at levels that tip sensitive skins toward an inflammatory state and leave sufferers in a position of managing a concern rather than actively addressing ageing.

Esse focuses on getting to the root of sensitivity so that clients with sensitive skin can take steps toward an active anti-ageing skincare routine.

Enter the Resurrect Serum

Formulated by biochemist and founder of Esse Skincare, Trevor Steyn, the Resurrect Serum delivers actives that both calm and fight the signs of ageing. There is a trio of hero ingredients in this formulation, apart from the signature Esse probiotic technology:

Myrothamnus flabellifolia or the Resurrection plant for which the serum is named, offers exceptional hydration and anti-oxidant properties to the final product. The plant is able to exist for years in the Namib Desert without a drop of water. It dries out completely and appears to be dead, only to spring to life in 3 hours after the rains arrive. The compounds that protect it and allow for rehydration during the harshest of droughts is what Esse extracts and includes in the new Resurrect Serum. This extract is further supported in its hydration and anti-inflammatory action with the inclusion of Hyaluronic Acid.

Bakuchiol is a non-toxic replacement for retinol and shows similar or better results without the downsides of skin irritation and phototoxicity, making it the perfect sensitive skin ingredient for overall skin improvement. As an aside, bakuchiol is an effective acne treatment, showing, on average, 70% reduction in 12 weeks.
Gamma aminobutyric acid (GABA), in combination with Bakuchiol offers outstanding skin firming and wrinkle reduction outcomes. On its own, it has the ability to relax facial muscles over time to reduce wrinkle depth. It also boosts skin firmness and improves the texture of rough skin.

For best results, the Resurrect Serum is a long-term solution to sensitive skin ageing concerns with all trials having been carried out over a 12-week period. The generous 30ml pack size ensures that clients see results from their purchase.

Each product is developed to address a specific skin concern, therefore no two products are the same. However, apart from each product’s tailored ingredients, there are two ingredients that are included in all Esse products. These are probiotics and prebiotics. They are the foundation upon which Esse products are developed, and what sets Esse apart from regular skincare brands.

Defining Pre-and Probiotics

Prebiotics and probiotics have a symbiotic relationship. Probiotics are live micro-organisms (bacteria) that have proven health benefits when either consumed or applied to the skin. These live organisms help to restore the body and skin’s natural balance, which is why they are included in food items such as yoghurt, and skincare products such as Esse Probiotic Serum. Prebiotics, simply put, are food for the probiotics, which feed on the prebiotics to remain active and working at optimal capacity.

Internally, these bacteria are collectively called gut flora or gut microbiota. Consuming a balanced amount of both prebiotics and probiotics keeps the gut healthy, preventing a bacterial imbalance by keeping pathogens at bay with their protective functionality.

Externally, skincare products that contain probiotics – either live or inactivated – provide the skin with a defence mechanism that is comprised of beneficial microbes, which increase their population on your skin’s surface, thereby preventing pathogens (or bad microbes) from taking up residence on your skin. These little bacterial soldiers are an essential part of the epidermis, and without them, you are left exposed to any number of potential germs and pathogenic bacteria, which can lead to negative skin reactions, and even illness.

In order to provide the skin with natural treatments that don’t cause irritation or strip the skin of its natural barrier function, we only use approved and certified organic ingredients, so our customers can rest assured that they are not exposing themselves to harmful or toxic chemicals. Natural botanicals form a large proportion of the ingredients that we use, each with their own unique skincare benefits and natural fragrances. These ingredients are selected for their specific skin concern benefits. For example, Esse has developed serums for rehydrating skin. Other skin concerns, such as acne, ageing skin, sensitivity, pigmentation, dryness and oily skin, are also catered for.

So, to answer the question, “What’s in a drop?”, millions of probiotics and beneficial ingredients that serve to treat your particular skin concern, without the harsh additives included in many regular skincare and beauty products. Whilst these may provide short-term results, science and nature provide solid evidence that natural products are far healthier for the body, which obviates the possibility of an allergic reaction or a severe condition that is triggered by harsh synthetics.

In conclusion, a little (drop) goes a long way!

There are many unfounded beliefs surrounding all aspects of life, including skincare, which we will focus on in this article.

Some common misconceptions and the real facts behind them:

MYTH 1: Dry skin and dehydrated skin are the same thing.

FACT: Dry skin lacks lipids / oils, whereas dehydrated skin lacks water / moisture. Dry skin usually has small pores, not much oil on the surface, and feels coarse and uneven. Specific skincare products like moisturisers and serums are recommended for this particular concern.

Dehydrated skin, on the other hand, feels taught, shows fine lines, and ages prematurely. This can be addressed by increasing your water consumption and using hyaluronic acid rich, hydrating skincare treatments. Whether your skin is dry or dehydrated, your skincare routine and diet are critical for restoring your skin’s natural balance.

SOLUTION: If you are unsure, seek professional advice from a skincare expert to determine what your skin concern is. Knowing your skin type is the first step towards determining what course of action to take. A gentle approach is a good place to start, for example, the Esse Sensitive Range, combined with treatments for dry and dehydrated skin.

MYTH 2: Diet is not important if I use quality skincare products.

FACT: Research has proven that your skin and physical health benefit from a holistic approach. Simply applying a moisturiser to your face won’t solve your skincare concern. A healthy diet and regular exercise, combined with a natural, probiotic skincare routine gives you a comprehensive foundation for maintaining overall health, as well as a healthy skin.

SOLUTION: A healthy diet and regular exercise, combined with natural, probiotic skincare products give you a comprehensive foundation for maintaining overall health, as well as a healthy skin microbiome.

MYTH 3: Acne is caused by infrequent cleansing.

FACT: Whilst it is important to regularly cleanse your face to remove pollutants, dead skin cells, excess sebum and dirt particles, the cause of acne is not a direct result of not washing your face. Four conditions that are linked to the development of acne are: clogged pores, sebum build-up, bad bacteria, and inflammation.

SOLUTION: Regularly cleanse the skin with a gentle non-foaming cleanser. Use gentle exfoliators, but not every day. Also, include probiotics both on your skin, and internally, for gut health. It is important to keep the skin’s microflora intact, with the ideal pH balance and healthy microbes. Keep pathogenic bacteria at bay by restoring the microbial diversity on the skin.

MYTH 4: Surgical spirits / rubbing alcohol will help with oily skin and acne.

FACT: It is widely known that use of alcohol-based products on the skin has a drying effect, stripping the skin of important natural oils that serve as a barrier. Alcohol kills the microbes on skin, harming your microbiome and, as a result, disrupting barrier function. It can also result in severe irritation.

SOLUTION: Rather preserve the skin’s microbial diversity by supporting the probiotic populations on your skin. Cleanse the skin with gentle and natural products that are free from harsh synthetic ingredients. The Esse range of probiotic skincare products provides alternatives to commercially-available mass-produced synthetic products, which work with your skin’s natural microbiome.

MYTH 5: Sensitive skin cannot be treated, and you must just live with it.

FACT: Skin sensitivity accounts for many skin concerns throughout the world. As a result, skincare manufacturers spend a lot of money and resources on developing products that address and control this skin issue.

SOLUTION: Esse has been developing natural and effective probiotic skincare treatments for almost two decades. Our test subjects are humans and none of our products or their ingredients are tested on animals. We use ingredients that are proven to normalise sensitive and reactive skin by improving skin condition and restoring a natural balance to the microbiome.

Nanoemulsions contain oil and water droplets, reduced to nanometric size (less than 100 nanometers). This technology is useful in delivering active ingredients more effectively by increasing the penetration of the active compound into your skin. Nanoemulsions are generally recognised as safe, provided that the ingredients that they deliver are safe.

Nanoparticles (the solid version) are widely used in sunscreens and other products with UV protection. They have gained popularity for their ability to block ultraviolet rays while minimising the whitening effect on the skin. The controversy surrounding these insoluble nanoparticles relates to their potential to penetrate the dermis and possibly trigger an immune response. The particles are so small that the immune system can mistake them for invaders and launch an attack. There is also concern that the particles could enter the bloodstream.

Nanoparticles are something we have chosen to avoid as we feel that there are too many unknowns … so why take the risk? In our sunscreen, the zinc oxide particle size is strictly controlled using a series of sieves designed to discard any particle too large or too small. This keeps us safely above the nanoparticle limit of 100 nanometers but avoids the whitening effect. We also coat the zinc oxide particles with wax so that there is no potential disruption of your skin microbiome.

Truly reactive skin is easily aggravated, and is described as environmentally sensitised or vaso-reactive.

Sensitivity is generally the result of an impaired barrier function, which results in nerve endings being more prone to irritation, and a hyperactive immune response. How the skin responds to triggers can include symptoms of swelling/oedema, redness, blemishes, stinging or tingling, itching and dry, scaly patches.

How do you know if you have sensitive or reactive skin?

• Skin might feel dry and itchy for no apparent reason
• Skin might sting and tingle when applying products
• Skin might be reactive or easily stimulated by heat and/or friction
• You may be prone to breakouts and develop rashes easily

Sensitive skin can be greatly improved by following some easy steps that don’t need to be expensive or time consuming.

What can you do to reduce and prevent skin sensitivity?

• Strengthen barrier function by supporting a healthy skin microbiome, choose pH balanced products that do not contain harsh preservatives.
• Supplement your skincare routine with pre- and probiotics.
• Avoid all foaming products – use a cream-based cleanser and don’t cleanse in the morning.
• Avoid fragrances – these are often synthetic and can trigger an exaggerated immune response.
• Avoid synthetic and chemical ingredients – these can harm beneficial skin micro-organisms and are not compounds that skin would be exposed to naturally.
• Avoid alcohols and astringents in products – these act as anti-bacterial agents, disrupting the skin’s microbiome.
• Avoid extreme temperature or climate changes.
• Manage your environment, lifestyle, diet and water intake – skin health is better managed holistically.

All that’s left to do is to head over to our store locator and find your nearest Esse stockist for a free skin analysis.  The time for great skin is now.

Have you had enough of hearing how the latest skincare fad is the only thing that will rescue your skin?

What if we told you that, to be at its best, your skin needs trillions of microbes from thousands of species? In the same way that your gut needs good microbes, your skin depends on its microbial partners to stay healthy. Often products that don’t consider the skin microbiome do more harm than good. So, less can really be more. If your moisturiser is not pH balanced, you’re wasting your hard-earned money. If your cleanser leaves your skin feeling squeaky clean, you’re stripping it of valuable natural oils. If your eye cream is loaded with bacteria-busting preservatives, you’re disrupting your skin microbiome and opening yourself up for all sorts of trouble.

Here’s what healthy resident microbes do for you:

1 – they protect you from pathogenic bacteria by colonising all the available space on the surface of your skin, leaving no room for troublemakers (this is called competitive exclusion).

2 – many good species of microbes found on skin produce anti-microbial peptides which actively fight off pathogens and strengthen skin defences.

3 – Lactobacillus microbes produce lactic acid, which keeps the pH of your skin right and improves moisturisation.

4 – they maintain the little stitch-like structures that hold your skin cells together (called tight junctions) which physically keep the bad guys out, and moisture in.

5 – some produce hyaluronic acid right on your skin – that’s pretty amazing, given what lengths some of us will go to to get it into our skincare routines.

It might sound as though keeping all of this together might require a load of expensive products, but in reality, it’s often the layers of skin potions and lotions that are responsible for modern skin concerns in the first place – acne, rosacea, eczema and sensitivity are all rooted in an imbalanced skin microbiome. Something has compromised the balance, allowing the wrong sorts of microbes to set up shop and run your skin into a state of chaos.

So, what can you do to restore balance to maintain a healthy state? Firstly, we need to identify what threatens a balanced microbiome:

• Preservatives – are designed to kill microbes. You don’t want to slap on harshly preserved products. The same philosophy applies to preservatives in processed food – they damage your gut microbiome.
• pH – products that are not properly pH balanced set the scene for rogue microbes to flourish. Beneficial skin microbes thrive at a pH of around 5 and easily overcome invader species when this pH is maintained.
• Foam dissolves oil. The oil your skin produces is valuable but (as recent research reveals) it is also high-energy food for friendly microbes. This oil (sebum) is metabolically expensive for your body to make, so in effect, it is you paying some pretty high-end staff to do a very important job for you. It makes very little sense to wash it down the drain.
• Hot water – this might be one of the toughest realities to accept, but hot baths and showers hurt the microbes on your skin. When our ancestors roamed the earth, living as one with nature, a hot bath was very hard to come by and so most of the skin microbes we have formed partnerships with cannot tolerate this modern-day luxury.
• Antibiotics are all too often prescribed for minor ailments but should be reserved for life threatening cases only. Antibiotics kill bacterial microbes indiscriminately. This leaves you vulnerable to secondary infection, with no natural defences in place to ward off future pathogen attacks.
• Municipal water – due to the risk of waterborne disease in urban areas, the vast majority of us have no option but to use and consume treated water. It may be hard to avoid, but be aware that this could affect the skin’s microbiome
• C-section deliveries can put babies on the back foot from birth. Our bodies are cleverly designed to deliver all the good microbes a new-born needs on its journey through the birth canal. Their skins are seeded with the right balance of microbes and they swallow their first microbes in the same journey, seeding their guts in the process. Breast feeding also helps with gut health as it’s now evident that breast milk contains prebiotics to feed an infant’s microbiome, as well as probiotics to seed the right species.

Now we know the things that can cause a microbiome to go out of kilter, it’s a little easier to know what to look for and what to avoid when choosing skincare.

More often than you would imagine, skincare products can harm your skin’s microbiome.  It is our advice that anyone struggling with any sort of skin ailment should start by cutting right back to the basics. Cleanse only in the evening and only if you are removing make-up – otherwise, rinse with water and use a cleansing cloth. Apply a little microbiome-friendly moisturiser and continue in this way for 2 weeks. Our bodies are always working toward an equilibrium, but the only way they can get on with it is if we don’t interfere too much.  You might be pleasantly surprised to discover that your body does a great job of getting back on track; and once it does, you can turn to Esse to get down to the nitty-gritty of great anti-aging skincare – because Esse puts microbes first, always.

“A change is as good as a holiday,” and who would say no thank you to that?

As 2020 gets underway, we’d like to challenge you to make some changes that will improve the outcomes for your skin (and overall health).  As with anything worth doing, some of the items on the list will require staying power but some are surprisingly simple – all come with benefits well worth the effort.

CHALLENGE 1

Quit the cleanse. Before you cringe, there is good reason to forgo your morning cleanse in favour of a little splash with water and here’s the thinking…
The natural oils that your skin produces overnight are very expensive (metabolically) to produce so it makes sense to assume that they are important; our bodies are not up for wasting energy for no good reason.  Our research has led to the discovery that these skin oils (sebum) are very useful to healthy skin microbes, the sorts of microbes you really want on your skin.  By removing all these good oils, we compromise our skin microbiome and open the playing field to unwanted bacteria that cause all manner of skin concerns from acne to eczema and rosacea.  Esse is all about creating a balanced skin microbiome – all our moisturisers contain prebiotics to feed good skin microbes in an attempt to keep them happy. If you stop to think about it, it’s like your skin makes its own nurturing moisturiser, so why wash it all away? Just rinse with a little water before toning and applying moisturiser. Aside from saving time and making your cleanser last longer your skin will be happier too.

CHALLENGE 2

Pick 1 day a week to go make-up free… no make-up means you can skip a cleanser all together that day. For compromised skin, this is probably one of the most beneficial practices you can get into. We’ve already explained the value of your skin’s natural oil, so give your microbiome a weekend to chill out too!

CHALLENGE 3

Turn towards the sun.  Spend at least 15 minutes in the sun everyday if you can – without sunscreen. Yes, that’s right!  Vitamin D is essential to your health on every level, including skin health. Vitamin D is made in your skin but your body needs unprotected exposure to direct sunlight to make it. For millennia our ancestors lived and roamed the great outdoors, so there is no reason to think we are not made for it.  Most of the western world is vitamin D deficient with known symptoms including auto-immune disorders, cancer, low bone density and depression. If you join the dots, these are the most common ailments affecting modern day humans – perhaps the first step we should take is a step back into the sun.

CHALLENGE 4

Quit sugar. This is probably the biggest challenge we have for you. It does require a lifestyle change but just say no thank you once, twice, three times and before you know it, it will be your natural response. Our bodies are built to seek out sugar and short chain carbohydrates as they represent free, easy energy, but a few hundred years back, these things were very rare and hard to find in nature. Dealing with the large quantities of sugar that are too easily accessible these days hurts you a lot. It’s often difficult to find anything that is not processed or sweet but if you plan ahead a little and have some healthy snacking options on hand, you won’t be tempted to cheat.

CHALLENGE 5

Sweat and breathe. Exercise is good for you, period. It’s also great for skin health. Sweating releases toxins that build up over time and getting your heart rate up, coupled with good breathing techniques increases blood flow to your entire body, skin included. We challenge you to get moving at least twice a week for 1 hour.

CHALLENGE 6

Go rewild yourself! This may sound like we’re encouraging irresponsible behaviour, but there’s nothing rebellious about rewilding. Getting out into nature reseeds your body and skin with an abundance of nature’s best medicine – good microbes. The side effects of rewilding are also great for reducing stress levels, elevating happiness and so much more. The best part is that there are so many ways to rewild that you will never tire of it:

• • Plant a garden – you’ll end up with beautiful flowers or fresh veggies as a bonus
  • Go for a walk in the wild – you’ll get fit and feel energized and inspired
  • Play with your pets – they’re masters at rewilding and will gladly show you how
  • Walk barefoot on the dirt, sit on the grass, go for a swim in the ocean
  • Hang outdoors with children – they also have a knack for it

CHALLENGE 7

Ditch the anti-bacterials. Our one last challenge to you is for the good of the planet as well… expose yourself and your family to fewer toxins – switch to eco cleaning products. A first step would be to reduce the number of cleaning products in your cleaning cupboard; do you really need a toilet cleaner, a shower cleaner and a surface cleaner? A quick search for eco cleaning products will result in a long list of companies making this simple change so easy. Many are even incorporating bacteria to do the job better than the nasty chemicals we have come to innocently trust.