The Bakuchiol used in skincare is extracted and purified from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, a legume that grows wild in India and China. Care needs to be taken in the extraction process as Bakuchi, the crude oil from the seeds, contains photocarcinogens known as psoralens – compounds for which the plant was named. Bakuchiol makes up about 1.6% of Bakuchi oil. Esse uses a 99% pure Bakuchiol.

Over the last few decades, retinol has become a go-to ingredient for anti-ageing results due its efficacy in addressing a number of ageing skin concerns. Its toxicity and side effects mean that it comes with some risks though. It is unstable in sunlight and can cause dryness and irritation on skin. The key advantage of using bakuchiol over retinol is that these side effects are absent and it is photostable, so can be safely used during the day without risk of instability or toxicity.

Anti-ageing action of Bakuchiol

Based on new studies, there is no statistical difference in improved wrinkle depth when comparing bakuchiol and retinol, with both ingredients tested at 0.5%. The same can be said for improvement in hyperpigmentation associated with ageing. As added benefits, bakuchiol reduces redness and skin roughness – both side effects often associated with the use of retinol.

Bakuchiol has also been shown to protect mitochondrial functions against oxidative stress and also to increase ATP synthesis, which releases more energy for cells.

Matrix Metalloproteases (MMPs) play a major role in collagen degradation and bakuchiol is far superior to retinol at inhibiting these.

Inflammation regulation 

Bakuchiol’s ability to mitigate inflammation is key to both its anti-ageing and anti-acne activity. From an ageing perspective, chronic inflammation eventually exhausts the body’s defense system, resulting in collagen and elastin degradation and the collapse of barrier function. Bakuchiol downregulates many pro-inflammatory genes in skin cells to reduce inflammation.

An interesting side-note … at high concentrations retinol stimulates inflammatory genes but this effect is not seen with the use of bakuchiol.

All in all, Bakuchiol is an ingredient Esse is excited to include in the Resurrect Serum, a launch that has been formulated to actively address ageing in sensitive skin.

It’s important to remember that sensitivity often correlates directly to a disruption in barrier function due to a microbial imbalance. This disruption results in an immune response that puts your skin on high alert and prone to flare ups, even when exposed to seemingly harmless ingredients.

As an Esse user, you will know that our primary goal is to remediate any microbiome imbalances and reverse sensitivity. An overactive immune response results in inflammation which is a primary contributor to skin ageing. Reducing inflammation is a major step in the right direction.

Anti-ageing products tend to carry active ingredients at levels that tip sensitive skins toward an inflammatory state and leave sufferers in a position of managing a concern rather than actively addressing ageing.

Esse focuses on getting to the root of sensitivity so that clients with sensitive skin can take steps toward an active anti-ageing skincare routine.

Enter the Resurrect Serum

Formulated by biochemist and founder of Esse Skincare, Trevor Steyn, the Resurrect Serum delivers actives that both calm and fight the signs of ageing. There is a trio of hero ingredients in this formulation, apart from the signature Esse probiotic technology:

Myrothamnus flabellifolia or the Resurrection plant for which the serum is named, offers exceptional hydration and anti-oxidant properties to the final product. The plant is able to exist for years in the Namib Desert without a drop of water. It dries out completely and appears to be dead, only to spring to life in 3 hours after the rains arrive. The compounds that protect it and allow for rehydration during the harshest of droughts is what Esse extracts and includes in the new Resurrect Serum. This extract is further supported in its hydration and anti-inflammatory action with the inclusion of Hyaluronic Acid.

Bakuchiol is a non-toxic replacement for retinol and shows similar or better results without the downsides of skin irritation and phototoxicity, making it the perfect sensitive skin ingredient for overall skin improvement. As an aside, bakuchiol is an effective acne treatment, showing, on average, 70% reduction in 12 weeks.
Gamma aminobutyric acid (GABA), in combination with Bakuchiol offers outstanding skin firming and wrinkle reduction outcomes. On its own, it has the ability to relax facial muscles over time to reduce wrinkle depth. It also boosts skin firmness and improves the texture of rough skin.

For best results, the Resurrect Serum is a long-term solution to sensitive skin ageing concerns with all trials having been carried out over a 12-week period. The generous 30ml pack size ensures that clients see results from their purchase.